Wednesday, September 2, 2009


It's been almost a month since I posted anything. The end of August has been like a blastbeat on a black metal record-unrelenting, and only masked by the screams of the anguished vocalist. Lord in heaven.

At any rate. The weather here in New England is getting what I like to call "holy fuck awesome". Highs have been in the low 70's and it's been breezy any sunny. This weekend will be my fist time climbing outside since forever ago. So I am psyched. I'm feeling pretty fit after training for the entire monsoon season we had. I got on my bike a ton though. Which is good.

In some climbing related news, friend and New Englander Phil Schaal has recently sent "Jade" V15. I knew this kid was strong, but holy shit. Good job dude. Keep an eye on Phil's blog to catch the video of sendification.

I have high hopes for sending "Suspect Device" V11 at Bradley, CT this fall, as well as maybe getting some work done on "Roses & Bluejays" V13 at The Great Barrington. Both of these problems are really, REALLY fucking good. And after my send of "Something from Nothing" this past fall, I think I can make things happen. I'd also like to polish off "Dr. No" 5.13d at Rumney. That freaking thing is getting to be the bane of my meager climbing existence. So wish me luck on that shit.

In some random and fairly unimportant cycling news, I have recently switched both of my fixed gear bikes to plastic toe clips. I randomly was given a pair, and had always been hesitant about them. But I have to say, I will likely never ride metal clips again, These things are softer, more comfortable, don't scrape, and have the same pulling power as the metal ones. Admittedly, I have heard some scary stories about them ripping off the pedals, but I can't imagine how that would happen if the straps are tight. Whenever I apply resistance, at least 90% of that resistance is taken by my straps, not the clips.

At any rate, I would highly suggest checking a set of these out. All-City makes some in lots of colors. But really they are all the same danged things made in Taiwan and re-branded.

1 comment:

  1. Yap. they are made in Taiwan. so do i
    Phillip Shih