AYN RAND WAS FUCKING DUMB.

Alex Honnold trying not to lose his shit on Half Dome

I have come as close as I want to epic climbing disaster. I have seen my life flash before my eyes free-soloing. I have taken horrifying falls. I have made my own stomach curl up in to my throat on the top outs of higher-than-high boulders. I have been lost as hell in the woods of the high country above Yosemite Valley at night trying desperately to find my way back to the car. It has been said that climbing is a selfish pursuit. Whoever said that is either A] Not a climber, B] A complete jackass, or both. Climbing is only a selfish pursuit if the person climbing is selfish. Saying that climbing is a selfish pursuit is like saying buying a car in your preferred color is a selfish act. FREE-SOLOING is a selfish pursuit. The things you put at risk doing such a thing take a certain measure of "fuck you world" in order to swallow deep and grab those first holds. Which is all at once an honorable and courageous act, while at the same time about as childish and stupid as running around yelling "mememememe me me me!". Which isn't to say I disapprove, or have not dipped my hand in to my chalkbag and took off up something without being tied in. It's just to say that when you do so, YOU BETTER MAKE FUCKING SURE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.

Why am I talking about this? The topic of free-soloing has hit home (literally) lately, as my best friend, climbing partner, and roommate has just broken his ankle in an attempt to solo Supernova (5.14b) at Rumney. Max wrote all about his epic experience on the Boston Rock Gym blog. It has since been linked on ClimbingNarc. Free soloing seems to be getting a shit-ton of press lately. Whether it's the recent death of world famous ropeless climber John Bachar or all the rave of Alex Honnold, and I think it's really important that we keep all this shit in perspective. People like Honnold are definitely asking for it. I'm sorry, but he is. I wish him the best of luck in all of his climbing endeavors. His free-solos are awe-inspiring and downright impressive. But they are also mind-numbingly stupid. Dying doing something you love is in a way amazing. But really only in a cheesy poetic way. Outside of that, it's actually pretty ridiculous. I mean, wouldn't you rather CONTINUE to do what you love?

That said, it is extremely important to note that on the topic of free-soloing, my opinion does not matter. Much like when I told Max the night prior to his accident "I don't think it's a good idea.", I am sure that if someone whom cared deeply for Alex Honnold told him not to do what he does, he would likely smile and nod, and go do it anyhow.

When trying to explain Max's injury to a non-climbing friend of mine I was asked "why the hell would you do that?" While I couldn't speak specifically for Max's motivations, I could answer the question:

"We as climbers want to push the limits. Our limits-both physically and mentally, we want to push the limits of what is possible as a climber, we want to reach new thresholds and hew heights-literally and figuratively."

"But why not just tie in?" my friend asks. I had to put it in terms he could understand:

"When you and I get on our fixed gear bikes and go tearing through the busy streets of Boston without brakes people think we are insane. But we get it. We know our limits, we feel in control of our bikes and the situation we are putting ourselves in. We love the exhilaration and pureness of the fixed gear bike. The simplicity of it, and yes, at times, the riskiness of it all."

He nodded. Now it made sense.

Steph Davis well in to the "no fall zone" sans rope.

And that's just it. Us weirdos out on the lunatic fringe of society are always pushing our own limits. Whether it's to increase our heart rate, boost our own egos, or simply because we think-and have sometimes convinced ourselves-that we are invincible. Steph Davis once said that "free-soloing is the ultimate display of control." I can't say I disagree. But it's important to recognize that the potential for accident-which is to say-things that are *outside* control is not finite. Shit can, and certainly will happen. The more you free-solo, the more you put yourself out there to push those limits, those physical and mental bounds, the closer you will get to that scary edge. A scary edge that falling off of can land you in emergency surgery with a smashed ankle, bug-eyed and laughing with your friends at how close of a call you just had, or dead.

The late Mike Reardon.

One important thing that Max touched on in his little screed about his experience is something that I have as of yet to see mentioned in any other public forum on the topic of free-soloing is how it affects those around you. In his case it was his employer, friends, roommate, etc. The Reel Rock Tour fails to mention in it's heart-warming interviews of Alex Honnold and his mom just how awful it would be if he died. How it might devastate those around him. Those stories are saved for the obituary issues of Climbing. Where numerous people chime in to tell their stories about John Bachar or Derek Hersey. It seems as though we maybe glorify the acts of free-soloists until it's too late. Perhaps more articles should have been written calling Mike Reardon a moron. Perhaps not.

Climbing is not a selfish pursuit, it's an amazing and fulfilling lifestyle and activity that can bring people together, form the strongest of bonds, and teach you a million lessons. It is also inherently dangerous. The lesson of injury or death from free-soloing is not a climbing lesson, it is a life lesson. Cherish what you have, love what you do, and don't be stupid.

Maxim asleep in my car on the way home from the hospital. Glad you're ok pal.